Polishing Techniques
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these are the latest polishing procedures from rw. he edited them on 10-19-16.
POLISHING PROCEDURES
Things have to be prepared ahead of time before you begin to polish. This is the way I do it.
My blades are hardened before I do any grinding. I first grind the blades on the hollow grind part (or the flats grind) of the blade on a 60 grit belt. Then I grind the hollow grind part (or the flat) of the blade on a 150 grit belt. This belt is very important. Then I grind the flats on 150, 320, & 400 grit discs on a disc grinder. Then I polish the flats. I then assemble the handle to the blade and rough it out to the shape I desire on a 60 grit belt followed by a 150 grit belt. Then I grind the handle only on a 150 grit belt that is oiled. I then grind the hollow ground part on a 320 Grit belt. Try to make sure everything is even as possible and take all the scratches the other belts left. Then I grind the whole knife with a 320 grit belt. I now grind the whole knife on a worn out 320 & 400 grit belt that is oiled. I use TFL 50 oil. Then the knife will be ready for the buffing procedures. I use three buffers, one fast at 3600 RPM and two slow at 1800 RPM.
Step #1: Use the #1 Wheel with #1 Black Compound at 1800 RPM
The #1 wheel is a red, treated airway wheel and is fairly aggressive. It will cut very fast. I had these wheels cut to my specifications at 9 inches. I find that 9” is as large a wheel as I can go without getting too much surface feet for the speed of the buffer and the operation. A 10” wheel or larger tends to give me too much surface feet and could cause orange peel in polishing. All scratches should be removed on this wheel.
Polishing time is approximately 1-minutes. Only polish the metal parts of the knife and try to stay away from the handle.
Step #2: Use the #2 Wheel with #2 Grey Compound at 3600 RPM
The #2 wheel is a yellow, treated airway wheel and the compound is the #2 compound. It will remove the scratches left by the #1 wheel. It starts the coloring process on your knife, and starts bringing out the luster.
Polishing time is approximately 30 seconds. You must remove all scratches, but you can’t spend too much time on this wheel. You must apply considerable pressure at this point, but decrease pressure as you proceed to each wheel. On this operation, you only polish the metal parts of the knife. Try to stay away from the handle as much as possible.
Step #3: Use the #3 Wheel with #3 Blue Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is a radial arc wheel that has 24 point stitching; and it is soft and works well on the handle. This wheel really starts to put shine and luster on your knife, especially the handle. It will polish heavy scratches from white micarta, which is sometimes hard to polish, without leaving any orange peel. This wheel will polish any material without distortion. You should polish all parts of your knife now.
Polishing time is again 30 seconds or longer and you should be using less pressure against the wheel.
Step #4: Use the #4 Wheel with #4 white Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is strictly a finishing wheel. When you polish on this wheel, it really brings out the luster in your knife. You can spend more time on this wheel because it gives you the final finish.
Step #5: Use the #5 Wheel with #5 green Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is an airway wheel very soft for finishing. When you polish on this wheel, it is like hand-rubbing your knife with a soft cloth. You can spend more time on this wheel because it takes very little compound. It removes all residue and compound and puts a deep luster on your blade and handle. Use very light pressure on this wheel.
Step #6: Now I sharpen the knife
I use a 320 grit belt, to grind the edge of the knife at about 17.5º until it becomes sharp. And then I go to the buffer with a cardboard wheel at 3600 RPM using the # 3 green compound. I find that it is the only compound that will sharpen knives. Be sure to hold the edge of the knife down. I go across the edge between 2-4 times. This makes the knife like a razor blade.
I spent many years working out this polishing system. I have my compounds and polishing wheels made special for me, therefore they cost more money. Some compounds you can buy are cheaper than mine and you can’t blame anyone for buying cheaper if it works. However, after a while I have former students call me and tell me that they are getting pits in their steel or brass when they are polishing. That comes from using the wrong compound or wheels. So, if you are getting small black pits in your steel or brass when polishing, call me. I can take care of that for you. 304-723-2771 or 304-670-5643
Things have to be prepared ahead of time before you begin to polish. This is the way I do it.
My blades are hardened before I do any grinding. I first grind the blades on the hollow grind part (or the flats grind) of the blade on a 60 grit belt. Then I grind the hollow grind part (or the flat) of the blade on a 150 grit belt. This belt is very important. Then I grind the flats on 150, 320, & 400 grit discs on a disc grinder. Then I polish the flats. I then assemble the handle to the blade and rough it out to the shape I desire on a 60 grit belt followed by a 150 grit belt. Then I grind the handle only on a 150 grit belt that is oiled. I then grind the hollow ground part on a 320 Grit belt. Try to make sure everything is even as possible and take all the scratches the other belts left. Then I grind the whole knife with a 320 grit belt. I now grind the whole knife on a worn out 320 & 400 grit belt that is oiled. I use TFL 50 oil. Then the knife will be ready for the buffing procedures. I use three buffers, one fast at 3600 RPM and two slow at 1800 RPM.
Step #1: Use the #1 Wheel with #1 Black Compound at 1800 RPM
The #1 wheel is a red, treated airway wheel and is fairly aggressive. It will cut very fast. I had these wheels cut to my specifications at 9 inches. I find that 9” is as large a wheel as I can go without getting too much surface feet for the speed of the buffer and the operation. A 10” wheel or larger tends to give me too much surface feet and could cause orange peel in polishing. All scratches should be removed on this wheel.
Polishing time is approximately 1-minutes. Only polish the metal parts of the knife and try to stay away from the handle.
Step #2: Use the #2 Wheel with #2 Grey Compound at 3600 RPM
The #2 wheel is a yellow, treated airway wheel and the compound is the #2 compound. It will remove the scratches left by the #1 wheel. It starts the coloring process on your knife, and starts bringing out the luster.
Polishing time is approximately 30 seconds. You must remove all scratches, but you can’t spend too much time on this wheel. You must apply considerable pressure at this point, but decrease pressure as you proceed to each wheel. On this operation, you only polish the metal parts of the knife. Try to stay away from the handle as much as possible.
Step #3: Use the #3 Wheel with #3 Blue Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is a radial arc wheel that has 24 point stitching; and it is soft and works well on the handle. This wheel really starts to put shine and luster on your knife, especially the handle. It will polish heavy scratches from white micarta, which is sometimes hard to polish, without leaving any orange peel. This wheel will polish any material without distortion. You should polish all parts of your knife now.
Polishing time is again 30 seconds or longer and you should be using less pressure against the wheel.
Step #4: Use the #4 Wheel with #4 white Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is strictly a finishing wheel. When you polish on this wheel, it really brings out the luster in your knife. You can spend more time on this wheel because it gives you the final finish.
Step #5: Use the #5 Wheel with #5 green Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is an airway wheel very soft for finishing. When you polish on this wheel, it is like hand-rubbing your knife with a soft cloth. You can spend more time on this wheel because it takes very little compound. It removes all residue and compound and puts a deep luster on your blade and handle. Use very light pressure on this wheel.
Step #6: Now I sharpen the knife
I use a 320 grit belt, to grind the edge of the knife at about 17.5º until it becomes sharp. And then I go to the buffer with a cardboard wheel at 3600 RPM using the # 3 green compound. I find that it is the only compound that will sharpen knives. Be sure to hold the edge of the knife down. I go across the edge between 2-4 times. This makes the knife like a razor blade.
I spent many years working out this polishing system. I have my compounds and polishing wheels made special for me, therefore they cost more money. Some compounds you can buy are cheaper than mine and you can’t blame anyone for buying cheaper if it works. However, after a while I have former students call me and tell me that they are getting pits in their steel or brass when they are polishing. That comes from using the wrong compound or wheels. So, if you are getting small black pits in your steel or brass when polishing, call me. I can take care of that for you. 304-723-2771 or 304-670-5643
