Polishing Techniques
To order compounds listed below, click here
to order wheels listed below, click here
these are the latest polishing procedures from rw. he edited them on 10-19-16.
RW, Wilson
PO BOX 2012 Weirton WV 26062 Phone (304) 670-5643
E – Mail rwknives@comcast.net Web site www.rwwilsonknives.com
Things have to be prepared ahead of time before you begin to polish. This is the way I do it.
I first grind the hollow grind part of the blade on a 60 grit belt. Then I grind the hollow grind part of the blade on a 150 grit belt. This belt is very important. Then I grind the flats on 150, 320, & 400 grit paper on a disc grinder (which I also manufacture and have for sale). Then I grind the hollow ground part on a 320 Grit belt. Try to make sure everything is even as possible and take all the scratches out that the other belts left. Then I go to heat treat. After heat treat, I grind the flats again on 400 grit paper on the disc grinder. I then polish the flats on all the steps listed below. Then I assemble the handle to the blade, and then rough it out to the shape you desire on a 60 grit belt. After that I sand all the scratches out of the handle with a 150 grit belt. Then I grind the hollow grind portion of the knife with a 320 grit belt. Then I grind the handle with a 150 grit oiled belt. I now grind the handle and hollow grind portion of the knife on a worn out 320 & 400 grit belt that is oiled. I use TFL 50 oil and also sell it. Then the knife will be ready for the buffing procedures. I use three buffers, one fast at 3600 RPM and two slow at 1800 RPM.
Step #1: Use the #1 Wheel with #1 Black Compound at 3600 RPM
The #1 wheel is a treated airway wheel and is fairly aggressive. It will cut very fast. I had these wheels cut to my specifications at 9”. I find that 9” is as large a wheel as I can go without getting too much surface feet for the speed of the buffer and the operation. All scratches should be removed on this wheel. Polishing time is approximately 1-minute or less. Only polish the metal parts of the knife and try to stay away from the handle.
Step #2: Use the #2 Wheel with #2 White or Grey Compound at 1800 RPM
The #2 wheel is a radial arc wheel and the compound is the #2 white or grey compound. It will remove the scratches left by the #1 wheel. It starts the coloring process on your knife, and starts bringing out the luster. You can give me a call if you want to know the difference of the white/grey. Polishing time is approximately 30-60 seconds. You must remove all scratches, but you can’t spend too much time on this wheel. You must apply considerable pressure at this point, but decrease pressure as you proceed to each wheel. On this operation, you polish all parts of the knife.
Step #3: Use the #3 Wheel with #3 Green Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is a radial arc wheel, similar to the #1 but it is softer and works well on the handle. This wheel really starts to put shine and luster on your knife, especially the handle. This wheel will polish any material without distortion. You polish all parts of your knife with this wheel. This wheel is the best for your handles. Polishing time is again 30 sec or longer, and you should be using less pressure against the wheel.
Step #4: Use the #4 Wheel with #4 White compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is strictly a finishing wheel. When you polish on this wheel, it really brings out the luster in your knife. You can spend more time on this wheel because it really brings out the color on everything.
Step #5: Use the #5 Wheel with #5 Pink Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is an airway wheel very soft for finishing. When you polish on this wheel, it is like hand-rubbing your knife with a soft cloth. You can spend more time on this wheel because it takes very little compound. It removes all residue and compound and puts a deep luster on your blade and handle. Use very light pressure on this wheel.
Step #6: Now I sharpen the knife
I use a 320 grit belt, to grind the edge of the knife at about 17º until it becomes sharp. Then I go to the buffer with a cardboard wheel (also for sale) at 3600 RPM using the #3 green compound. I find that it is the only compound that will sharpen knives. Be sure to hold the edge of the knife down. I go across the edge between 2-4 times. This makes the knife like a razor blade. When you come off of the cardboard wheel, you will have some black from the cardboard on the edge of the knife. Feel the edge of your knife and make sure it's sharp. Then, I go to the #5 wheel (with the pink compound) and take no more than two passes on each side to take the black off. This will make your knife much sharper also. You can't spend a lot of time on this #5 wheel because it can also dull your knife.
I spent many years working out this polishing system. I have my compounds and polishing wheels made special for me, therefore they cost more money. Some compounds you can buy are cheaper than mine and you can’t blame anyone for buying cheaper if it works. However, after a while I have former students call me and tell me that they are getting pits in their steel or brass when they are polishing. That comes from using the wrong compound or wheels. So, if you are getting small black pits in your steel or brass when polishing, call me. I can take care of that for you. 304-723-2771 or 304-670-5643
PO BOX 2012 Weirton WV 26062 Phone (304) 670-5643
E – Mail rwknives@comcast.net Web site www.rwwilsonknives.com
Things have to be prepared ahead of time before you begin to polish. This is the way I do it.
I first grind the hollow grind part of the blade on a 60 grit belt. Then I grind the hollow grind part of the blade on a 150 grit belt. This belt is very important. Then I grind the flats on 150, 320, & 400 grit paper on a disc grinder (which I also manufacture and have for sale). Then I grind the hollow ground part on a 320 Grit belt. Try to make sure everything is even as possible and take all the scratches out that the other belts left. Then I go to heat treat. After heat treat, I grind the flats again on 400 grit paper on the disc grinder. I then polish the flats on all the steps listed below. Then I assemble the handle to the blade, and then rough it out to the shape you desire on a 60 grit belt. After that I sand all the scratches out of the handle with a 150 grit belt. Then I grind the hollow grind portion of the knife with a 320 grit belt. Then I grind the handle with a 150 grit oiled belt. I now grind the handle and hollow grind portion of the knife on a worn out 320 & 400 grit belt that is oiled. I use TFL 50 oil and also sell it. Then the knife will be ready for the buffing procedures. I use three buffers, one fast at 3600 RPM and two slow at 1800 RPM.
Step #1: Use the #1 Wheel with #1 Black Compound at 3600 RPM
The #1 wheel is a treated airway wheel and is fairly aggressive. It will cut very fast. I had these wheels cut to my specifications at 9”. I find that 9” is as large a wheel as I can go without getting too much surface feet for the speed of the buffer and the operation. All scratches should be removed on this wheel. Polishing time is approximately 1-minute or less. Only polish the metal parts of the knife and try to stay away from the handle.
Step #2: Use the #2 Wheel with #2 White or Grey Compound at 1800 RPM
The #2 wheel is a radial arc wheel and the compound is the #2 white or grey compound. It will remove the scratches left by the #1 wheel. It starts the coloring process on your knife, and starts bringing out the luster. You can give me a call if you want to know the difference of the white/grey. Polishing time is approximately 30-60 seconds. You must remove all scratches, but you can’t spend too much time on this wheel. You must apply considerable pressure at this point, but decrease pressure as you proceed to each wheel. On this operation, you polish all parts of the knife.
Step #3: Use the #3 Wheel with #3 Green Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is a radial arc wheel, similar to the #1 but it is softer and works well on the handle. This wheel really starts to put shine and luster on your knife, especially the handle. This wheel will polish any material without distortion. You polish all parts of your knife with this wheel. This wheel is the best for your handles. Polishing time is again 30 sec or longer, and you should be using less pressure against the wheel.
Step #4: Use the #4 Wheel with #4 White compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is strictly a finishing wheel. When you polish on this wheel, it really brings out the luster in your knife. You can spend more time on this wheel because it really brings out the color on everything.
Step #5: Use the #5 Wheel with #5 Pink Compound at 1800 RPM
This wheel is an airway wheel very soft for finishing. When you polish on this wheel, it is like hand-rubbing your knife with a soft cloth. You can spend more time on this wheel because it takes very little compound. It removes all residue and compound and puts a deep luster on your blade and handle. Use very light pressure on this wheel.
Step #6: Now I sharpen the knife
I use a 320 grit belt, to grind the edge of the knife at about 17º until it becomes sharp. Then I go to the buffer with a cardboard wheel (also for sale) at 3600 RPM using the #3 green compound. I find that it is the only compound that will sharpen knives. Be sure to hold the edge of the knife down. I go across the edge between 2-4 times. This makes the knife like a razor blade. When you come off of the cardboard wheel, you will have some black from the cardboard on the edge of the knife. Feel the edge of your knife and make sure it's sharp. Then, I go to the #5 wheel (with the pink compound) and take no more than two passes on each side to take the black off. This will make your knife much sharper also. You can't spend a lot of time on this #5 wheel because it can also dull your knife.
I spent many years working out this polishing system. I have my compounds and polishing wheels made special for me, therefore they cost more money. Some compounds you can buy are cheaper than mine and you can’t blame anyone for buying cheaper if it works. However, after a while I have former students call me and tell me that they are getting pits in their steel or brass when they are polishing. That comes from using the wrong compound or wheels. So, if you are getting small black pits in your steel or brass when polishing, call me. I can take care of that for you. 304-723-2771 or 304-670-5643